Alternator Drive Shaft Removal Procedure

1. Remove the alternator - follow the workshop manual Sect 9.8 (pg 326)
• O-ring seal is 2.4 mm section 77 mm ID (accepting bore is 81 mm ID)
• Can re-use old o-ring, if not damaged, but 10 mm must be removed (cleanly & square), and re-attached with superglue. If you don't do this, it will not fit snugly in the groove, and will be cut by the accepting bore when the alternator is re-fitted. It will take a day or so to discover the oil leak - it's very slow.
• When refitting the alternator, hold the rubber couplings in place with a dab of PVA glue
2. Remove the alternator drive coupling:-

Alternator Coupling with Lock Washer	Lock Washer - the tags may be broken

1. Open up the lockwasher, to gain access to the coupling bolt. The tags on the lockwasher break off in time, so it should be replaced with a Belville washer.
2. Undo the coupling bolt using a rattle (impact) gun. If the shaft spins, select 6th gear, apply the rear brake and try again. If you don't have access to a rattle gun, the job may prove to be difficult. You may need to make a tool to grip the clutch using 3 of the 6 thrust plate screws
3. DON'T remove the shaft just yet!
3. Remove the clutch - follow the workshop manual Sect 5.8.3 (pg 151) - it's comprehensive.
   
   • The clutch cover centering screws should be removed last, or they may be difficult to undo due to the pressure of the surrounding screws
   • Use a magnet to remove the ball bearing at the end of the pushrod
   • The clutch fixing nut is 36 mm A/F
   • Check the roller bearings. If they are slip fit (early clutch), the bearing number is KT40x47x18
   • Check the thrust bearing. It's a standard cage bearing, not a thrust bearing, so it may not last that long (50,000 kms ?)
   • Check & record the manufacture date. It's cast into the inside of the aluminium housing.
   • Check the movement in the shock springs on the back. 2 may well be loose. Any more than a 5mm gap is getting a bit excessive, and the source of much of the engine's rattles at idle. The springs can also wear their way through the back of the basket. No gap is better - which is how the later models are made.
   • When re-assembling the clutch plates, install the last plate in the offset position, as shown in the manual picture, but not mentioned.
4. Remove the alternator drive shaft :-

Engine casing is split, and upside down in this view

1. If the Z25 gear is fixed to the shaft with loctite, have an assistant hold a 18-19 mm ID tube over the shaft end, to support the gear, and a heavy weight at the other end of the tube. Using a brass drift on the bolt side of the shaft, shock the glue free by striking the drift with a hammer.
2. Follow the shaft through with a 13 mm od rod. This will capture the one way clutch, as it slides off the shaft. If you don't, the clutch will drop into the gearbox.
5. Alternator shaft re-assembly :-
• M10 bolt torque is 50 Nm. (pg 204, Sect 5.11.14)