How do you change the fuel map?
A couple of possibilities :-
|Axone is the standard tool used by Benelli, and several other manufacturers. It's ~$2000 & not that easy to come by. It can talk to many different ECU's though, if you have the right interface cable & installed software.|
|Tuneboy works similarly to Axone. It runs as an application on a PC, and talks to the ECU with a special RS232 or USB cable, but it is locked to a single ECU serial number. Certain variants are a bit smarter than the Axone though, as they can also take engine data, such as throttle position & rpm, and external data from a wideband O2 sensor, which, with the correct equation, will provide the air/fuel ratio (AFR). With this setup, you can modify your own injector timing (fuel) map.|
|The AFR Tuner (AT) is a closed loop controller. Initially, it uses the OEM ECU injector map, but it is also given a target AFR map, downloaded from a PC. It reads the current throttle position, rpm & AFR (from a wideband Oxygen sensor), and compares the actual AFR with the target AFR. It then builds & adjusts it's own fuel map to reduce the AFR error.|
|The Power Commander, is available now in 2 variants, PC III & PC V.
The III is open loop. Give it an injector timing map, and it will use that to control the injector times, dependant on throttle position & rpm.
The V is a recent variant. It works in a similar manner to the AT, by building it's own fuel map from the target and actual AFR values.
How do you modify the map ?
Two ways. Either with minimal loom modification, or, not.
The former is the way #922 is wired. It requires the creation of cable stubs, to make connections using the standard connectors. Some of these are difficult to acquire.
The latter requires the unwrapping of the main loom from stern to just behind the engine, and splicing into the relevant wire, using soldered joints. With this method, Items 5 to 13, in the Parts List below, can be deleted.
|1||1||AFR Tuner, cables and mounting strips||Motty||AT2.2||Motty Electronics||modifys the ECU injection times dependant on throttle position, rpm, current AFR and your AFR map|
|2||1||wideband lambda sensor||Bosch||0 258 007 200||generally available, but try Tech Edge, Motty or Innovate Motorsports||measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust|
|3||1||stainless steel collar M18x1.5, 25mm OD, 16mm long shaped to but to a 50mm exhaust pipe||Innovate Motor Sports||3736||your local machine shop, Motty or Innovate Motorsports||weld this to your exhaust to mount the lambda sensor. See below for the position.|
|4||1||Handlebar switch right hand kill on-off & start||Hi Level||694605||Motorcycle Products||replaces existing switch block to enable map switching (re-wiring required)|
|5||4||2 pin female connector & boot||Bosch||1 287 013 003-000||generally available, but in Oz: Ashdown-Ingram||to connect to Engine Temp Sensor & injectors|
|6||4||2 pin male connector & boot||Bosch||1 287 013 002-000||generally available, but in Oz: Ashdown-Ingram||to connect to the OEM loom: Engine Temp Sensor connector & injector connectors|
|7||1||3 pin female connector & boot||Bosch||1 237 000 003-000||rare, but in Oz: Ashdown-Ingram||to connect to the Throttle Position Sensor|
|8||1||3 pin male connector||Tyco/AMP||Housing: 1-0144546-0, (3) Male pins: 0-0142755-1||extremely rare, unless you want 1,000. I managed to procure samples from Boersig GmbH, in Neckarsulm, Germany. Thomas is an absolute legend. Possibly also available from onlinecomponents.com||to connect to the OEM loom: Throttle Position Sensor connector|
|9||1||3 pin female connector housing||Tyco/AMP||282087-1||Farnell 150-423||connects to speed sensor cable to tap off speed & +12V supply|
|10||3||20-16AWG (0.64-1.3 mm2) crimp socket||Tyco/AMP||183025-1||Farnell 151-075||to suit above|
|11||1||3 pin male connector housing||Tyco/AMP||282087-1||Farnell 150-423||connects to speed sensor cable to tap off speed & +12V supply|
|12||3||20-15AWG (0.64-1.5 mm2) crimp pin||Tyco/AMP||183024-1||Farnell 151-040||to suit above|
|13||6||Green wire seals||Tyco/AMP||281934-4||Farnell 150-915||seals the wires in the 2 housings above|
|14||1||extraction tool||Molex||11-03-0044||Digi-Key WM9918-ND||tool to remove pins from the AT Main plug|
|15||20||24-18AWG (0.2-0.78 mm2) Female Crimp Contact||Molex||39-00-0207||DigiKey WM3116CT-ND||to suit AT Main Plug|
|16||2 m each||0.75 mm2 Black (2x), Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, White pvc insulated wire||.||.||.||.|
|17||2 m each||0.5 mm2 Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Violet, Grey, White, Pink pvc insulated wire||.||.||.||.|
|18||1 m||4 mm pvc tubing||ProPower||PVC-4-0-CL||Farnell 130-2785||to cover the injector & temp sensor wires of the AT loom|
|19||1 m||6 mm pvc tubing||ProPower||PVC-6-0-CL||Farnell 130-2785||to cover the TPS wires to the AT loom|
|20||1 roll||cloth backed 20 mm wide automotive looming tape||United Partners P/L||N1010||K&R Car Parts, Seven Hills, NSW||for wrapping the AT loom|
The collar is just a little close too the exhaust mount. The TIG torch very nearly didn't get in close enough. 10mm further upstream would have made the welding task much easier.
The AT will fit in the duck tail, between the fans as shown above, if the fusebox is raised, moved left, or allowed to float
freely. Initially, just lift it off it's clip. The top of the AT metal case should be protected from connecting to the frame by
super gluing a piece of PETE (from a 2 litre juice bottle) to it.
Motty supply 4 pieces of Dual Lock in the AT kit. Clean off the fan & AT housings with isopropyl alcohol, and when dry, stick 2 to the end of the AT (as shown), then slip it into position. Rotate the part sticking to the fan, so that it follows the curvature of the fan housing. Next, remove the AT & stick the remaining 2 pieces to it's underside, in a position that will line up with the right housing.
I raised the fusebox by rotating it's clip through 180o. An extra notch is required though, and the pillion seat will touch it.
Take care when removing the clip. The tips are sprung loaded, and must be squeezed together to allow the clip to be withdrawn.
Now that the clip is remounted, unwrap the looming tape from the wiring to the fan plugs & fusebox, to allow re-looming in a more
appropriate position - later.
Mount the AT, and move the diagnostics plug to the position shown. Also move the diode plug & assembly back and across, to make room for the AT coms plug. I have an accessories power supply jack that I fitted a while back (to charge my phone & gps receiver), which had to be re-positioned as well.
It's now time to remove the battery and the ECU.