How To Install Engenia's Dash UPS

(My apologies. This is going to be a long page)

What you'll see with the screen removed	A higher view
What you'll see with the screen removed when you're done	Another view

Pre-requisites

1. ENG-TRE-006-MOD: the UPS module
2. Crimp tool T1537: available from Tomorrow Concept for $AU18.95
   Alternatively, the Universal Molex tool #63811-1000, can be used on the 1.4mm position, for the wire, and the 1.6mm position for the insulation. It's about 3x the price of the T1537 though.
3. Looming Tape: 20mm wide x 200 mm long. (Supplied in the kit - or from United Partners Pty Ltd, 20 Prime Drv, Seven Hills, NSW 2147. Ph +61 2 9838 9600)
4. Velcro fastener pair: 16mm dia (Supplied in the kit)
5. 2 pin male housing: JST p/n: 02T-JWPF-VSLE-S (Supplied in the kit)
6. 2 male crimp pins: JST p/n: SWPT-001T-025 (Supplied in the kit)
7. 2 pin female housing: JST p/n: 02R-JWPF-VSLE-S (Supplied in the kit)
8. 2 female crimp pins: JST p/n: SWPR-001T-P025 (Supplied in the kit)
9. Tools to remove the mirrors and screen

The Procedure

1. DISCONNECT THE +VE BATTERY TERMINAL. (Or work on it live at your own peril)
2. Remove the screen.
3. Remove the dash
4. Disconnect the dash plug.
   
   There's a tab in the centre of the plug that will release the connection if pushed.
5. Unclip the ferrite block from the violet wire. NB: Ignore this step if the block is not present.
   
6. Disconnect the ambient temperature sensor connection. This has black & red wires leading to the 2 pin connector, and 2 black wires leading to the sensor. It's the white connector on the left, above.
7. Disconnect the parking light connection. This has black & yellow wires leading to and from, the 2 pin connector.
   NB: the 2 connectors are interchangeable. Don't mix them up when they are re-connected.
   NBB: there is a 3rd 2 pin connector that has 2 black wires going to it from the loom. It is not connected to anything.
8. The UPS needs 1 red wire and 1 black wire, from the loom. All black wires in the loom are 0V (battery negative), so any will do. There are TWO red wires in the loom. One goes to the ambient temperature sensor, the other is the one the UPS needs. It's always live - unless you've (hopefully) removed the battery positive terminal. You need to find it ....
9. Find the end of the loom tape.
   
10. Unwind the loom tape onto a clean bolt (or something similar), until the red temperature wire can be seen branching out to the ambient temperature sensor connector
    The UPS needs the OTHER RED WIRE, the one uppermost in the picture below.
11. Cut the red UPS wire at 125mm from the end of the dash connector
    Then do the same with any black wire.
12. Could have done this a while back, but now's a good time to give yourself more room to work by relocating the loom.
    Remove the rubber loom tie & withdraw the loom end as shown.
13. Unwind some more loom tape, so that at least another 90mm of wire, from the cut, is exposed.
14. Time to make some connections. The battery side of the cut wires will be terminated with female pins (SWPR-001T-P025), which are inserted into the corresponding housing (02R-JWPF-VSLE-S). The pin is inserted into the housing, with the small lip on the pin, engaging a corresponding channel in the housing. Both lip and channel are shown on the lower side of the picture.
    
15. Remove the blue rubber seal from the connector housing (SWPR-001T-P025), and feed it over the red and black wires on the battery side of the cuts.
16. Remove 3mm of insulation from each wire. (If you're working on it live, be careful!)
17. Pre-form the pins so that they will grip the wires. DON'T CRIMP THEM yet.
18. Position the black wire on the pin & crimp it - unfortunately no picture, but it will be very similar to the male crimp below.
19. Place the black wire in positon 1. "1" is marked on the side of the housing. Check it before you push it home. You only get one chance to get this right!
20. Repeat for the red wire then insert it into positon 2, and push it home. Slip the blue seal into place in the back of the connector housing
21. Now for the other end.

    Remove the blue seal from the 02T-JWPF-VSLE-S housing, and feed it over the red & black wires on the dash side of the cut.	Trim 3mm of insulation from each wire.

22. Set up the male pins for crimping.

    Male pin	Pre-form the pins so that they will grip the wires.

23. Crimp the pins to the wires.

    Place a pin on a wire, and crimp it.	Complete the crimps

24. Slip the black wire into position 1. Again, "1" is marked on the side of the housing. Check it before you push it home. You only get one chance to get this right!
25. Slip the red wire into position 2
26. Starting from the Female UPS supply connector end, wrap the looming tape, glue down, around the wires.

    Wrap to the original loom.	Feed the tape end under several wires in the loom to secure it.

27. Re-Wrap the loom

    Wrap around the UPS power branch to.	Continue up the loom, leaving enough space for the Ferrite Block

28. Feed the loom back into position, and reconnect the rubber tie.
    Re-fit the Ferrite Block to the violet wire
29. Re-connect the parking light. Yellow & black wires on both sides of a 2 pin connector
30. Re-connect the ambient temperature sensor. Red & black wires to a 2 pin connector from the loom. 2 black wires leading to the sensor.
31. There is one 2 pin female connector with 2 black wires, remaining. It goes no-where.
32. Test Time
    Before connecting the UPS to the loom, offer up the connector to it's mating part, and check that the black wires will be connecting to each other. If they aren't going to, the wiring is in error, and must be corrected before proceeding.
    Assuming all is correct, connect the UPS into the circuit (& re-connect the battery supply if you disconnected it earlier)
33. Re-connect the dash.
34. Switch ON & set the clock to the correct time.
35. Switch Off.
36. Test the UPS by disconnecting the UPS power connector, by depressing the tab. The UPS will still be connected to the dash.
37. Re-connect the UPS power connector, and switch ON. The clock should still be set correctly. If it is back to 12:00, you have a connection fault. Probably an open circuit in one of your crimps.
38. Fitting Velcro patches
    There is a flat at the top of the headlamp body. Clean this with isopropyl alcohol, or methylated spirits. While you're at it, clean the side of the UPS box as well.
39. Place the fibre velcro pad on the newly cleaned flat on the headlamp body.
40. Re-fit the dash so that the loom lays over the 2 pin connector branches. That will hold them in place and keep them as neat as is possible.
41. Attach the velcro loop pad to the mating part on the headlamp body, remove the backing sheet, then offer up the UPS. It won't be level because of the loom, but it will be mostly out of site behind the dash.
42. When sitting astride the bike, you should just be able to see the LED over the dash.
43. Refit the screen & mirrors
44. Job's done. Go grab a beer & admire your handy-work.

If you are interested in solving your resetting clocks problem contact Engenia. The UPS will be made to order, so allow a couple of weeks for delivery.