It's a cold morning and you've decided to take Nelli for a blast though the hills. You turn her on, the dash goes through it's familiar dance, then you hit the starter. She turns over a couple of times, then stops briefly, before continuing, then firing up. You notice that the dash is repeating its 'dance'. Then you realise that the clock has reset to 12:00, the trip meter is back at 00.0 and, if you had the lap timer running (unlikely), it is back to 00:00:00.

Sound familiar? Well, here's how to fix it.

If you still have one of the original dash's (revision A in particular), you would find that it resets just about every time you start the bike. This happens because the battery is too small for the job, and when cranking the engine, the voltage drops below that needed to keep the dash electronics alive.
When I first picked up my Tre, I was baffled by how she knew that I had just refueled her. Then I realised that the clock was resetting as well ...... the penny dropped.
When I got home I called the local guru, JohnnyO, and he sent me a new dash. He let me keep the original so that I could investigate the problem. He had a box full of them. So that's how I started on this project - the Tre Dash UPS.
Now, at version 4, the solution is found.

* The new dash - revision D - is much better than the original, but is still susceptible. It reset on me every month or so.
* Some put their nelli's on a charger overnight to get around the problem. This made sure that the battery was in peak condition for the morning start.
* AussieRS is trying a starter gear ratio reduction.
* Squeeze in a bigger battery. I tried this as well. It's similar to putting it on charge each night. There's more power available for cranking. Just masks the real problem though.
* Others don't care.

I tour on the thing, so the clock & trip meter are important to me.

The perfect solution is to change the dash circuit, and protect the data, but this is a monumental task.
So instead, an Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) was added to the dash. This also masks the problem, but will do the job better than uprating the main battery, as far less energy is required to hold up the voltage when cranking current is not supplied as well.
There's now 2 batteries. The second is there only to hold up the dash supply voltege, when the main battery voltage drops too low.

One other thing, the revision A dash operates differently to revision D. When you hold the mode key down on the 'A', the mode changes before your eyes after several seconds. The 'D' changes once you release the key. If you didn't hold it down for long enough, nothing happens. Personally, I like the 'A' method better, so that's the one I'll be using once the UPS is up and running.
Finally, the odometer reading is stored in non-volatile memory (electrically erasible flash), so it will not reset. You can reset it, if you try really hard, but that involves direct communication with the serial EEPROM. You need to dismantle the dash to get at it.