1. |
Remove the clutch cover. This is what it will look like. |
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2. |
The alternator shaft/Z25 gear is above & to the right of the clutch Look closely (click on the picture at right) & you should see 2 triangles. Only the latest shaft/gear has them & they should be aligned. If you don't have them, you need to do something about it. You'll need :-
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3. |
The intermediate gear on the back of the clutch basket should be 8mm, at least. The original was only 6mm. You'll need a mirror & a small ruler to check it ..... unless you remove it :-) |
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4. |
Check the cush drive springs they may be loose. The picture at the right is Colin's 2003 clutch after he dismantled it. At the left, is the basket, inverted. You can see the drive springs on the right. There are 3 different spring pairs, and 1 pair may have some end-play. To check it, grab the basket & rotate it, each way. You are working against a pressure plate, so it will be difficult to move. Any more than 10 mm of movement at the circumference before the springs take up, is too much. If so, you'll HAVE to proceed to the next step .... |
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5. |
Check that the loose springs haven't worn through the back of the clutch cage. Remove the clutch plates and have a look at the back of the clutch basket. The picture at right will show you what you are looking for. |
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6. |
Check the clutch version With the clutch plates removed, have a look at the casting inside. (Click on the picture for a larger view of the 2008 model) There will be a number, or table of numbers cast into it. That will tell you what model the basket is. Ideally, yours will be an '07, or later. If it's a 2003, it may be ok, but you do need to keep an eye on it. Mine is a 2003, and it has travelled nearly 60,000 km, with no issue, other than being noisy, due to the positive spring end-play. |
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7. |
Check the alternator drive shaft bolt. The picture at right, is of the alternator drive dog, fixed in place with an M10 bolt - that's had it's head machined down - and the special lock washer - that was replaced by a Belville washer. You already know, roughly, what shaft you have, but you need to check this bolt even if you have the latest shaft. If it's an M8 bolt, stop right now. The shaft MUST be replaced, as the engine is heading for disaster. That bolt is only torqued to it's maximum 35Nm, and that's not enough. Is the drive dog loose? The tabs on the special lock washer may be broken. Change it for the latest Belville washer. Is the bolt not torqued correctly? It should be at 50Nm. It should also be locked with Loctite 648. |
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8. |
Check the cam chain tensioner This link will describe it and explain how to check it. Measure your spring, then record the tensioner depth & the odometer reading. This will give you a baseline, and an indication of how effective the tensioner is. Next service, measure the spring depth again. Keep track of the progress of the depth. If it has run out of adjustment, do something about it. There's a link at the bottom of the page that will provide a couple of suggestions. THIS IS CRITICAL. Ignore it at your peril. |
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9. |
Go have a beer, you deserve it. | ![]() |